Now this is almost the best part about the sensor. The stock wires that came with my build should be long enough for up to a 400 size machine, for those with a 500 you will likely need to extend them. What will change is the input pins you need to assign in the firmware stage! Wire the sensor as per the table shown below. The BLTouch connectors all have the follow pin out shown above. Now RatOS supports a lot of boards these days and although I have only tested this on the Mellow Super 8 It should be applicable to the others because they almost all have a BLTouch connector! Note that 5V can also be used so long as the controller input pins are also tied to 5v. The sensors come with a pre-crimped wire that should follow the wiring convention below. (There is a video from the Orbiter channel here) Once it reaches the correct position it should audibly click into place. There is a vertical slot that the side of the board should go into. Take it back out, check if your print needs cleaned up anywhere and check the angle/alignment. The fit is tight but if you feel like you are having to force it in. The board is then slid into the housing – You need to be both careful yet firm with this operation. Install one of the ball bearings into the round cavity near the filament outlet. Now at this point I need to apologise because I got too excited and just installed everything without taking photos! Credit for the images below has been added below each image. RatOS doesn’t support this out of the box but it is very easy to install and I have tested that the provided macros run nicely alongside all the other wonderful RatOS functionality! Keep reading for how to install in specifically on RatOS Installationįirstly if using the V1.5 then you need to print the sensor housing (I suggest using black ABS) and the light guide ( CAD here, STLs here). So to summarise if you have an Orbiter extruder and are not running the filament runout sensor I think you are mad and should just go out and buy one! You won’t regret it. This is a more generic comment on the Orbiter extruder as I had the same experience loading and unloading filament before I had the sensor. I find that sometimes feeding the filament in it can get stuck and therefore miss the auto extrude portion of the macro while you fiddle to get the extruder gears to catch. Now the loading and unloading side of things isn’t quite so reliable. It has also never failed to pause a print when filament ran out and I am finally getting through the stupid number of nearly finished spools I had been hoarding! Since using it I haven’t had a single false trigger during printing. Sure you could add a generic filament sensor from any supplier but unless you mount it right on the extruder you can’t use up the very last bit of filament each time! Honestly this is one of those little quality of life improvements for a printer that once you have one you are never quite sure how you lived without it. The kit thankfully comes with a spare ball bearing which is handy for those who are clumsy like myself and promptly dropped and lost the 1st one! Review For those running V1.5 then you need to print your own! For those running the V2 then you get the SLS nylon housing included. The contents of the kit varies depending on which version you buy. Printed filament sensor housing (only applicable if your kit didn’t come with the SLS nylon part).Orbiter filament sensor kit (Buy the appropriate one for the version of the orbiter you have – this guide is showing it with V1.5).Trianglelab were kind enough to send me one to test! BOM The sensor is really nice, it adds very minimal addition drag onto the filament path, has a button to control loading and unloading while you are at your printer and a nice indicator LED to show the status of the sensor. Quite frankly I was done with babysitting the end of a roll. I’ve been a big fan of the Orbiter extruders (Massive shout out to Róbert Lőrincz for all his orbiter projects) for quite a while and I decided it was time to add filament runout sensors to all my printers.
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